woodcraft crosscut sled

I’ve engineered this sled to give you years of reliable use. The design of this sled helps reduce weight and make small and easy-to-use. With my technique, it's easy to do both. However, this does not impact our recommendations. Makes no difference because it is a great design. The right fit.

It doesn’t need to be perfectly square, unless you would like to use the sled from both sides. Subscribe to the newsletter and get 10% off your next purchase in addition to the latest products, guides and project ideas.

A clear plastic guard over the blade keeps sawdust from flying in your face. 4. tall and just fits under my saw. x 60-in.) I feel than a crosscut sled is an essential jig to have for any table saw. Simply attach a fence next to the workpiece and use its T-track clamping feature.

You must be logged in to write a comment. Make your ‘MegaSled’ into a shop workhorse. The only problem with a large crosscut sled is that it tends to tip off the front of the saw when pulled backward to load a wide panel. specialty cuts. Step three. Once you have it exact, screw it in place from underneath using a few more screws. Crosscut sleds have been around for a long time, but few are ideal. quickly and accurately make the cuts. This will be necessary for the aluminum stop arm (R) to fit tight against the T-track.) They won’t sag because they’re stiffened by aluminum. The fence and back brace are laminated to prevent twist or warp. Just need some scraps of plywood. Easy storage. This story originally appeared in American Woodworker May 2007, issue #128. Place one workpiece against the inner finger, while offsetting the other by a finger’s width (a spacer is useful in this case). Glue and brad nails will shorten clamping time throughout this project. Add the subfences. Log In. Drill and countersink pilot holes through the base for attaching the fence and braces (Fig. Adjustable stops. and hold-downs to safely cut tapers on small workpieces like those shown on

making dedicated jigs that will see service only once or twice. Part F attaches to the top edge of G. Two pieces of. What works well is to fit them slightly too tight and then sand the edges to fit using a sheet of hand sandpaper. Remove the table saw’s guard, raise the blade 1-in. Pivoting on the screw seems to help this process. To make the plywood thinner, cut a piece 4 in.

Cut the tenon’s cheeks with the jig, then the shoulders on the sled itself. Add T-track (T) to the fence and aluminum angle to the rear brace (C). Projects

Linseed Oil and Spontaneous Combustion: Take it seriously. Trim the runners flush to the base with a handsaw. Also, keep an eye out for sawdust buildup along the base of the jig, blowing it away as needed. The subfence is composed of two adjustable sides, like many router table fences.

To glue them to the underside of the sled, I raise them slightly above the table’s surface by stacking coins in the miter slots. Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. Square the base using the table saw’s fence. is listed just before the Cutting list & figures. Check the squareness of the fence with a test cut. There is no support for your work piece next to the blade. In the photo abovw, you can see how the five major parts come together, with part T resting at a 45º angle. Make a setup block by placing its end against the inner finger and making a cut. This opening will gradually widen with normal use. These are optional sacrificial faces. Put all the screws into the rear brace, but only one screw into the fence’s right end (Photo 3). Assembly. See more ideas about Table saw sled, Sled, Woodworking jigs. The steps required to set up and make the cuts are shown in the accompanying photos.

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